How to Fertilise your Lawn – A Complete Guide

When it comes to beautifying your home, it is certainly incomplete without a lawn. Fertilising your lawn is one of the most important things you need to do because it’s important to keep your lawn healthy, green and free of weeds. Here is an easy guide to fertilising your lawn.

Grass Type

One thing you should be aware of before fertilising your lawn is the grass type and the season and time of the year. If your lawn has, for example, cool season grass, there are 2 growing periods you need to know about. First, when the grass grows right after winter dormancy and the second when the summer heat wave ends, it’s best to fertilise your lawn after it greens. If your lawn has warm season grass, you wouldn’t want to fertilise your lawn until it comes out of dormancy, as the grass is sensitive and the application of fertilisers can destroy your lawn. Once your lawn has been cut three times, it is safe to assume that the warm season grass is completely out of dormancy, which is then the best time to fertilise your lawn.

Type of Fertiliser

Before applying any type of fertiliser, make sure you read the bag of contents. This way you will know exactly what are you applying and whether or not it suits your lawn. Some fertilisers cannot be used on certain grass types as they can destroy the grass, and some might have extra additives that can be harmful for the grass. If you are not sure of which type of fertiliser to use, here are some factors to keep in mind:619woGWWpAL._SL1500_

  • You can get either liquid or granular fertiliser. Liquid fertilisers work and are absorbed quickly whereas granular fertiliser is sprinkled on the lawn and absorbs slowly.
  • Choose either quick or slow release granular fertilisers.
  • Choose between organic and chemical fertiliser. There are fertilisers available that also kill weeds but organic fertilisers are better for your lawn in the long run.

Use Proper Equipment

The equipment you use during the fertilisation of your lawn makes a huge difference to the overall outcome. If you have a small lawn, most of the work can be done by hand but if your lawn is fairly large, you will need to rent or buy proper equipment. Get a rotary spreader for large lawns as it has a wider reach. A drop spreader can be used for lawns with areas that need precise fertilisation.

Prepare the Spreader and Start Fertilising

Fill the spreader with the appropriate fertiliser and adjust it so that the release matches the recommended dosage on the fertiliser bag. Choose a place in your garden to start the fertilising. However, be sure not to skip areas and avoid spreading excessive fertiliser.

Water Your Lawn

Last, but not the least, don’t forget to water your lawn with appropriate amounts. This helps the soil absorb the fertiliser. Follow this easy guide and observe as your lawn will obtain the benefits right away! Like us on Facebook – Follow us on Twitter –

Get the biggest, best crops!

maxiOnce your tomato seeds have germinated, you’ll have a pot of seedlings that need to be pricked out. Gently lift each seedling and pot it up in its own small pot, burying it quite deeply. The tiny hairs on a tomato seedling’s stem turn into roots if they’re buried, ultimately giving you a plant with a bigger root system. Depending on when you sow, you may need to pot them on once more. When the first flowers appear, move them into their final pots, grow-bags, baskets or borders – with a bit of luck, this will coincide with the last of the frosts! The secret to success with tomatoes is all in the watering and feeding. These are thirsty, hungry plants and the increased yield you’ll get if you water religiously and feed regularly makes it well worth doing.

Grow-bags and pots quickly dry out in the heat of summer when the plants are growing rapidly. It’s important to keep the soil evenly moist so check regularly and water when it’s necessary – in a really hot summer that could be twice a day. It’s especially important that the plants don’t dry out while the fruits are developing. If they  do, the skins could split or the tomatoes might get blossom end rot – black patches at the base of the fruit. About four or five weeks after pricking out, the compost in the individual pots may start to run out of nutrients, so feed if it’s necessary – the telltale sign is leaves that start to yellow. And once the plants are in flower, weekly feeding is a must.

Use a fertiliser formulated for tomatoes with high potassium to promote more flowers and fruit. Mix up the feed following the instructions on the packet and feed once a week or as directed. Maxicrop’s Tomato Fertiliser contains a mineral fertiliser that’s high in potash, but it also contains Maxicrop’s famous seaweed extract, which helps root and leaf development and builds plants’ natural health to help resistance to environmental stresses. If you’re an organic gardener, use Maxicrop Organic Tomato Natural Fertiliser, which has been Get the biggest, best crops!

maxi2approved for organic use by the Soil Association. It’s made from naturally-occuring plant extracts and seaweed to give balanced, healthy nutrition for your toms. If you use a separate fertiliser or feel your plants are lagging behind, use Maxicrop Original as a pick-me-up, applied as a foliar spray or root drench every one to two weeks.

Maxicrop is available from good garden centres. If the Maxicrop product you want isn’t available in your local garden
centre, check the Garden Centre Group website ( for your nearest store (there are over
130 in England and Wales) or you can buy the entre Maxicrop range from


Don’t forget our competition!

Win a FREE bottle of Maxicrop Moss Killer!  –

Lawn rescue!





Lawns are never at their best when they emerge from winter, but make that the wettest winter on record and most lawns look positively worse for wear! At worst, they were flooded, at best sodden for long periods and as a result, grass is now weak and yellowing, thanks to weeks of soggy roots and nutrients being washed from the soil. To add to your lawn’s woes, constant wet conditions are ideal for moss, which doesn’t need much encouragement to invade! Thankfully, warmer weather and longer days with more sun will soon get grass growing, which means you can get to work to bring it back to health. If your lawn was flooded or badly waterlogged, wait until it has thoroughly dried out before you start work because if it hasn’t, you’ll do more harm than good by walking over it.


But once conditions have improved, get cracking! Start off by going over the lawn with a rake, to pull out Advertisement feature debris that has accumulated over winter and break up any crust left after flooding. Then use an aerator to get air back into the soil and help dry it out plus alleviate any compaction. Next, it’s time to make sure your grass is growing as strongly and healthily as possible. If you want a lush, green lawn, it’s important to feed it regularly. Constant mowing demands a lot from your grass, so feeding is vital. Moss doesn’t like high nitrogen levels so a well-fed lawn will help keep its invasion at bay, plus a lawn that’s growing strongly will be better able to out-compete weeds. Use Maxicrop Original seaweed extract alongside your regular lawn fertiliser for a number of benefits.

For a start, you’ll get greener grass and thicker swards. Maxicrop helps the grass thicken up by encouraging strong, healthy growth and tillering – where the grass plants put out new horizontal shoots to help your turf cover thinner areas. It also encourages deeper rooting so your grass can take up more water and nutrients (if we get a hot, dry summer this will make your lawn better able to withstand drought). The seaweed The right treatment now will get your lawn lush and green for summer A job to do now: rake out debris extract gives your turf a better colour by boosting chlorophyll levels in the leaves to give you healthier, better-looking greener grass, while the alginates it contains improve the waterholding capacity of the soil.

Maxicrop products to get your lawn back to its best!

UntitledMoss Killer & Lawn Tonic – If moss is a problem, try Maxicrop’s Moss Killer & Lawn Tonic this spring – all the benefits of Maxicrop’s seaweed extract, plus moss-killing iron.

Unlike granular moss treatments that have to dissolve and percolate through the grass to come into contact with moss, Moss Killer & Lawn Tonic comes in liquid form so is easily applied and makes good contact with the moss for a quick, efficient kill.

Once the moss has died, normally about 10-14 days after treatment, rake it out or scarify the lawn.

A 2.5 litre bottle costs £12.99 and will treat 80sqm (96 square yds) of lawn.



Use Maxicrop Original Seaweed Extract as a tonic for your lawn, alongside granular fertilisers. Applied during the growing season you’ll see improved colour plus strong, healthy growth that’s more resistant to foot traffic and stress. Monthly applications of Maxicrop Original during the main growing season will make a visible difference to your lawn’s growth, thickness and rooting this spring. A 1 litre bottl used this way will treat 100sqm of lawn for around £8.69.

● Maxicrop is available from most good garden centres. If the Maxicrop product you want isn’t in your local garden centre, check the Garden Centre Group website (www.thegardencentre for your nearest store (there are over 130 in England and Wales), The Range ( or buy any Maxicrop product from

Maxicrop’s Guide to Growing Your Own Vegetables

Growing your own vegetables is a rewarding and worthwhile project that can be undergone by all the family in gardens of any size! All you need is a plot, some seeds or bulbs, and our advice to get yourself on your way to being a season GYO gardener!

grow your own

Grow Your Own Vegetables

The Plot

The plot should be well-drained, level, sheltered, slightly limey, and in a position that gets plenty of sunlight. Small raised beds are ideal for carrying out work on all sides, and allows for closer planting to eliminate weeds. Try to change the plot position every year if possible, to decrease the risk of disease and pest issues and give the new crops the best chance of performing well.

Crop Rotation

If you are growing various vegetable groups on a large enough plot, rotate the groups every year on a 3 – 5 year cycle, leaving a section of soil empty each year to allow the soil to rest and recover.

The four main vegetable groups are:

Group 1: Potatoes – Courgettes, marrow, pumpkins, tomatoes and peppers (potatoes can use up a lot of space so skip this group if you’ve a small plot).

Group 2: Legumes – peas and beans. Fix nitrogen from the air in their root nodules, which is appreciated by group 3.

Group 3: Brassicas – cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, kale and turnip.

Group 4: Roots and onions – beetroot, parsnips, carrots, onions, shallots, garlic and leeks.

Draw out a plan of your vegetable plot, divide the plot into 4 equal sections and mark where you are going to plant your vegetables. Keep this plan somewhere safe where you can refer to it in following years.

Tips to remember

Opt for traditional seed varieties over modern ones, as they will have much more flavour, as they are not bred for shape or colour.

Ensure there is no chance of frost before planting vegetables, even if this means waiting until after the recommended planting season. Vegetables planted late will catch up, but vegetables hit by frost are unlikely to recover.

If you area first time GYO gardener, don’t get over ambitious at first. Stick to one or two types of vegetables in your first year.

Fennel, artichokes, carrot and parsnip seedlings don’t like to be disturbed, so do not move them in the crop rotation.

Fertilise your vegetables with an organic fertiliser such as Maxicrop Natural Fertiliser to promote healthy growth and stimulate your vegetable plants without the need for chemicals.

Plants and Gardens Perform Best With Regular Feeding

Soil, watering and care are major factors in the growth of a plant. But too much watering, heavy downfalls of rain, dry spells, and vigorous plant growth can all reduce the nutrients naturally found in soil, leaving the plants malnourished.

But it’s so easy to replace the nutrients lost from the soil and then some, to ensure your plant grows to be the healthiest and biggest it can be! A regular feeding regime goes a long way to doing your garden and its inhabitants the world of good.

Plant Feeding Can Be Simple

Feeding your plants regularly doesn’t have to be expensive or time consuming.  Maxicrop Plus Complete Garden Feed is a balanced all-purpose seaweed extract based fertiliser for great for excellent healthy growth all round the garden, including all flowers, vegetables, shrubs, fruit and trees, and even houseplants!


Specified Plant Feeds

You will receive better results if you do have the time to use targeted plant foods for a specific type of plant, as each one is      formulated to be that specific plants needs, where as complete garden feeds for all plants tend to be weaker and more general formulas, for easy and quick use.

Flowerbeds and borders will benefit from the use of Maxicrop Plus Flower Fertiliser. It is a seaweed extract based fertiliser formulated specifically for flowering plants, including bedding plants, hanging baskets, tubs, containers and borders. It produces brighter, healthier and longer lasting blooms.

Maxicrop also offer plant specific formulas for Bonsais, Cactus & Succulents, and Orchids.

For excellent natural yield on tomato and other crops, Maxicrop Plus Tomato Fertiliser is recommended, and many growers will use nothing else!

It is important to regularly feed your container plants throughout the summer as they are in need of plenty of nourishment to perform at their best, especially where there are several plants in the same container, as any fertiliser in the compost will soon get used up.  Keep plants performing at their peak, no matter what their position or neighbours, by using Complete Garden Feed or a specified fertiliser, and you will be sure to see results. You will wonder how you ever managed without feeding your garden!



Keep a colourful and flourishing garden during extreme weather

The record breaking weather we have experienced recently has affected our gardens in various ways, and we have to adapt to these extreme changes, so learning how to garden during droughts, deluges, arctic chills and heat-waves is a main priority.

garden flooding

Record breaking rain fall has hit the UK this year

Although many of our plants will adapt and toughen up to the weather extremes, for some it will be their undoing, separating the strong from the weak. But that shouldn’t prevent you from enjoying some of your favourite more tender plants, even during biting frost. There are preventative measures that can be taken during particularly cold and icy winters. We suggest using a frost protection spray to lessen the damage and aid adaption. Also, keeping such plants in an environment where frost is at a minimum, such as a shed with a window or a greenhouse, will help keep them in tip top shape over winter.

A greenhouse is one of the best investments for any gardener in this changing climate, and sowing plants inside and allowing them to grow and prepare before transferring into the garden is a must for veg and perennials.

greenhouse climate change gardening extreme weather

A greenhouse or shed is a gardener’s best friend during climate change

The early summer in March, followed by non-stop rain in May, June and July, caused many garden centres to cancel their orders for bedding plants. Wholesalers ended up having to compost thousands of cancelled bedding plant orders, and the trade has still not picked up, as sales are remaining poor for garden centres this year. But this could mean good news for you. There is no better time than the present to go on a hunt for some bargains on shrubs, perennials and veg plants.

Whatever the weather, tender perennials seem to be able to adapt and perform well. Many of the salvias, including the dark pink S. involucrata ‘Bethellii’ and the blue ‘Indigo Spires’ seem to spring back no matter what. Argyranthemums are equally as good, and the pale yellow ‘Jamaica Primrose’ brings a beautiful burst of colour to the garden.

jamaica primrose

‘Jamaica Primrose’

Plants with tall, leafless stems of colourful bulbs and perennials, such as the Verbena bonariensis, can be beautiful and useful as the naked stems give an airy feel and allow different plants to mingle closer together. Thalictrum delavayi is also a popular choice, as it has branching sprays of tiny lavender flowers and fine foliage. Dianthus carthusianorum has intense magenta flowers, and regular deadheading will keep it blooming from July to September at least. This looks well mixed with naked stemmed tulbaghias (lilac flowers). Alliums and eremurus in late spring and early summer are brilliant, and can be ordered for autumn planting.

Before you embark on your summer holidays, be sure all your plants are prepared. Soak all pots, despite if it is wet, and move them into shade. Deadhead the flowers, especially the annuals, so they will be blooming when come back. Harvest all nearly ripe vegetables to prevent rotten crops from spreading disease, and cut back any over long growth on trees and shrubs in case of storms.

Maxicrop’s guide to Mulching

Mulches are materials that are placed over the soil’s surface to trap in moisture and improve the soil’s overall conditions. Mulching is one of the best and most beneficial techniques of keeping plants and trees healthy as it reduces water loss from the soil, minimizes weeds, and improve the soil’s overall structure.


However, if not done properly, for instance if the mulch is too deep or is made of the wrong materials, it will have the opposite effect, causing significant damage, so it is vital to know your mulch! That’s why Maxicrop have put together a guide to mulching, to help gardeners get to terms with one of the best but often tricky gardening techniques.

Benefits of Mulching

  • Helps soil retain moisture by reducing evaporation, hence the need for watering is minimized.
  • Helps control weeds in the garden by creating less than ideal conditions for germination and growth for weeds.
  • Serves as nature’s insulating blanket. It helps keep soil temperature up in winter, and reduces it in summer.
  • Various types of mulch improve soil aeration, structure and drainage over time.
  • Some types of mulch improve soil fertility.
  • A layer of mulch can prevent certain plant diseases from plaguing your garden.
  • Mulching around trees helps facilitate maintenance and can reduce the likelihood of damage from “weed whackers” or the dreaded “lawn mower blight.”
  • Mulch can give plant beds a well-cared-for look.

A plant bed with mulch can look attractive and cared for

Types of Mulch

You can buy prepacked mulches in many forms from local garden centres. The two main types you will come across are inorganic and organic. Inorganic includes various types of stone, lava rock, pulverized rubber, geo-textile fabrics, and other materials. The upside to this type of mulch will not need to be replaced often as it does not decompose. The downside is it won’t improve soil structure, add organic materials, or provide nutrients because it doesn’t decompose. For these reasons, most gardeners opt for organic mulches.

Organic include wood chips, pine needles, hardwood and softwood bark, cocoa hulls, leaves, compost mixes, and a variety of other products usually from plants. The upside to this type of mulch is it will add nutrients and organic materials, as well as improving soil structure as it decomposes. The downside is that as most decompose fairly fast, the need for maintenance is increased.

Not Too Much!

Although mulch has highly beneficial factors, you can always have too much of a good thing. Too much mulch could do serious harm, so the general recommended depth of mulch is 2 to 4 inches. Only replenish as the mulch decomposes, and never venture outside these depth limits.

Rubber Mulch

Problems Associated with Improper Mulching

  • Deep mulch can cause excess moisture to pool around the roots, giving plants and trees root rot.
  • Piling too much mulch around stems and trunks can traumatise stem tissues and lead to disease.
  • Use of mulches containing cut grass or similar materials over a long period of time can affect soil pH and lead to micronutrient deficiencies or toxicities.
  • Thick blankets of fine mulch can become matted and may prevent the penetration of water and air. In addition, a thick layer of fine mulch can become like potting soil and may support weed growth.
  • Anaerobic “sour” mulch is likely to give off nasty odours and the alcohols and organic acids that build up may be toxic to young plants.

Mulch gives plants and trees essential nutrients and locks in moisture

How To Practice ‘Proper’ Mulching

So we have now established that the type of mulch and the method of application have an important effect on the health of landscape plants. The following are some guidelines to use when applying mulch:

  • Inspect plants and soil in the area to be mulched. Determine whether drainage is adequate. Determine whether there are plants that may be affected by the choice of mulch. Most commonly available mulches work well in most landscapes. Some plants may benefit from the use of slightly acidifying mulch such as pine bark.
  • If mulch is already present, check the depth. Do not add mulch if there is a sufficient layer in place. Rake the old mulch to break up any matted layers and to refresh the appearance. Some landscape maintenance companies spray mulch with a water-soluble, vegetable-based dye to improve the appearance.
  • If mulch is piled against the stems or tree trunks, pull it back several inches so that the base of the trunk and the root crown are exposed.
  • Organic mulches usually are preferred to inorganic materials due to their soil-enhancing properties. If organic mulch is used, it should be well aerated and, preferably, composted. Avoid sour-smelling mulch.
  • Composted wood chips can make good mulch, especially when they contain a blend of leaves, bark, and wood. Fresh wood chips also may be used around established trees and shrubs. Avoid using non-composted wood chips that have been piled deeply without exposure to oxygen.
  • For well-drained sites, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch. If there are drainage problems, a thinner layer should be used. Avoid placing mulch against the tree trunks. Place mulch out to the tree’s drip line or beyond.